From Niemeyer to the Olivetti Shop: what to see during FAI's Autumn Days 2025

On 11 and 12 October, the FAI Autumn Days will reopen the doors to some of Italy's most important heritage sites. From Milanese rationalist architecture to masterpieces by Carlo Scarpa and places of collective memory: Domus has selected ten sites that are not to be missed.

Oscar Niemeyer, Palazzo Mondadori, Segrate, Lonbardia, Italy, 1975

Photo by Carlo Dell'Orto - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons .

Oscar Niemeyer, Palazzo Mondadori, Segrate, Lonbardia, Italy, 1975

Photo by Carlo Dell'Orto - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons .

Piero Portaluppi, Corbellini-Wassermann House, Milan, Italy, 1934-1936

The external staircase of the residence, from the Casa del Sabato per gli Sposi, built by Portaluppi with BBPR for the 5th Milan Triennale (1933). Photo Delfino Sisto Legnani and Marco Cappelletti.

Piero Portaluppi, Corbellini-Wassermann House, Milan, Italy, 1934-1936

Galleria Massimo De Carlo, based at Piero Portaluppi's Casa Corbellini-Wassermann. Architectural design by Studio Binocle, consultation by Antonio Citterio, with permission of the Soprintendenza Archeologia, Belle Arti e Paesaggio for the metropolitan city of Milan, 2019. Photo Delfino Sisto Legnani and Marco Cappelletti

Pier Luigi Nervi Laboratory (Polytechnic/Lecco)

Photo Professor Giulio Zani

Pier Luigi Nervi Laboratory (Polytechnic/Lecco)

Photo Professor Giulio Zani

Birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi, Busseto, Province of Parma

Courtesy Birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi

Birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi, Busseto, Province of Parma

Courtesy Birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi

Santa Maria Regina Coeli Church, Naples, Italy

Photo by lucamato from Adobe Stock

Santa Maria Regina Coeli Church, Naples, Italy

Photo by lucamato from Adobe Stock

Carlo Scarpa, Negozio Olivetti, Venice, Italy, 1958

Domus 362, January 1960

Carlo Scarpa, Negozio Olivetti, Venice, Italy, 1958

Domus 983, September 2014

Le Nuove Prison Museum, Turin

Luciano Galmozzi; Pierfrancesco Ginoulhiac; Teresa Ginoulhiac Arslan, Teatro Lirico di Cagliari, Cagliari, Italy, 1971-1993

Courtesy Teatro Lirico di Cagliari

Luciano Galmozzi; Pierfrancesco Ginoulhiac; Teresa Ginoulhiac Arslan, Teatro Lirico di Cagliari, Cagliari, Italy, 1971-1993

Courtesy Teatro Lirico di Cagliari

Fonte d'Amore concentration camp, Sulmona, Province of L'Aquila

Once again this year, the FAI confirms its autumn event, which reopens the doors of some gems of Italy’s built heritage and allows visitors to explore places that tell the story of local culture and memory through the country’s architectural history. This year’s edition, taking place on October 11 and 12, offers a wealth of sites to discover: from Milanese Rationalism to masterpieces of international Modernism, and from spaces of civic memory to sites of labor and culture.

One of this year’s highlights — unfortunately already sold out — is the Mondadori Headquarters in Segrate, about nine kilometers from Milan, designed by Oscar Niemeyer between the late 1960s and early 1970s. It is a manifesto of architecture as an artificial landscape, suspended between concrete arches and reflecting pools, set within a park designed by Pietro Porcinai.

Moving to the city center, the FAI has organized guided tours of architectural works by Piero Portaluppi, including the celebrated Casa Corbellini-Wassermann from the 1930s, a testament to the bourgeois elegance of Lombard Rationalism. Still in Lombardy, Pier Luigi Nervi’s Laboratory at the Politecnico di Lecco reveals the experimental power of reinforced concrete and the tension between structure and architectural design that defined an era. Among the must-see sites is a small gem hidden under the Procuratie Vecchie arcades in Venice: the Olivetti Store, designed by Carlo Scarpa, a true masterclass in interior architecture contained within just a few square meters. There are also examples of Italian Brutalism, such as the Teatro Lirico in Cagliari—designed by Luciano Galmozzi, Francesco Ginoulhiac, and Teresa Ginoulhiac Arslan—where visitors will be able to access areas that are usually closed to the public.

Many 19th-century villas will also be open for the occasion, such as Villa Verdi in Sant’Agata (Piacenza), which conveys the intimacy of the composer’s domestic space as an extension of his creative world. Religious sites are also included, such as the Monastery of Regina Coeli in Naples, an intertwining of convent architecture and Baroque art. Finally, there is room for places of collective memory, including the former Le Nuove Prison in Turin, which in recent years has been repurposed for cultural and exhibition activities, and Camp No. 78 in Sulmona, near L’Aquila—originally built for prisoners of World War I and later used for Anglo-American POWs between 1940 and 1943.

Oscar Niemeyer, Palazzo Mondadori, Segrate, Lonbardia, Italy, 1975 Photo by Carlo Dell'Orto - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons .

Oscar Niemeyer, Palazzo Mondadori, Segrate, Lonbardia, Italy, 1975 Photo by Carlo Dell'Orto - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons .

Piero Portaluppi, Corbellini-Wassermann House, Milan, Italy, 1934-1936 The external staircase of the residence, from the Casa del Sabato per gli Sposi, built by Portaluppi with BBPR for the 5th Milan Triennale (1933). Photo Delfino Sisto Legnani and Marco Cappelletti.

Piero Portaluppi, Corbellini-Wassermann House, Milan, Italy, 1934-1936 Galleria Massimo De Carlo, based at Piero Portaluppi's Casa Corbellini-Wassermann. Architectural design by Studio Binocle, consultation by Antonio Citterio, with permission of the Soprintendenza Archeologia, Belle Arti e Paesaggio for the metropolitan city of Milan, 2019. Photo Delfino Sisto Legnani and Marco Cappelletti

Pier Luigi Nervi Laboratory (Polytechnic/Lecco) Photo Professor Giulio Zani

Pier Luigi Nervi Laboratory (Polytechnic/Lecco) Photo Professor Giulio Zani

Birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi, Busseto, Province of Parma Courtesy Birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi

Birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi, Busseto, Province of Parma Courtesy Birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi

Santa Maria Regina Coeli Church, Naples, Italy Photo by lucamato from Adobe Stock

Santa Maria Regina Coeli Church, Naples, Italy Photo by lucamato from Adobe Stock

Carlo Scarpa, Negozio Olivetti, Venice, Italy, 1958 Domus 362, January 1960

Carlo Scarpa, Negozio Olivetti, Venice, Italy, 1958 Domus 983, September 2014

Le Nuove Prison Museum, Turin

Luciano Galmozzi; Pierfrancesco Ginoulhiac; Teresa Ginoulhiac Arslan, Teatro Lirico di Cagliari, Cagliari, Italy, 1971-1993 Courtesy Teatro Lirico di Cagliari

Luciano Galmozzi; Pierfrancesco Ginoulhiac; Teresa Ginoulhiac Arslan, Teatro Lirico di Cagliari, Cagliari, Italy, 1971-1993 Courtesy Teatro Lirico di Cagliari

Fonte d'Amore concentration camp, Sulmona, Province of L'Aquila