What happens when one of the most radical artists of her generation meets one of the most iconic jerseys in modern football? The result is a kit transformed into a performative costume and cultural artifact.
This is the case of the Total 90, recently revived by Nike and reinterpreted by German artist and choreographer Anne Imhof.
Launched for Euro 2004 in Portugal, the Total 90 quickly became one of the most recognizable and celebrated jerseys in football history. With its curved lines and innovative design, it introduced a futuristic aesthetic, worn by national teams such as Portugal and the Netherlands and by clubs like Paris Saint-Germain. With Portugal reaching the final, the jersey entered the collective imagination of that tournament. From there it moved beyond the pitch to establish itself in streetwear and urban subcultures, becoming a generational symbol in its own right.
Anne Imhof, Golden Lion winner at the 2017 Venice Biennale with Faust, has revolutionized the language of contemporary performance by interweaving music, choreography, fashion, and visual art in works that have defined institutions such as Tate Modern (Sex, 2019) and the Palais de Tokyo (Natures Mortes, 2021). Her practice, with its dark atmospheres and imagery suspended between rebellion and desire, has profoundly shaped the aesthetics of the past decade.
The collaboration with Nike builds on DOOM: House of Hope, her most monumental production, staged in the spring of 2025 at New York’s Park Avenue Armory: a three-hour performance in which two rival “houses” — a contemporary, inverted Romeo and Juliet — confronted each other in an arena that fused concert, dance, and collective ritual.
The two jersey versions, created in collaboration with the graphic design studio Zak Group, embody the factions of the performance: the House of Tigers, in blue short sleeves with a tiger motif, and the House of Wolves, in vivid red with a wolf emblem. On both, the name “IMHOF” is boldly printed across the back, turning the artist into the true player who orchestrates the performance and transforms the stadium into her stage.
Presented on September 13 at Kühlhaus Berlin, from September 16 the project moves into the streets: the jerseys will be available at Voo Store Berlin and Dover Street Market London, ready to be worn by the public.