Zupi Zuppa Soup

Amidst the Biennale's havoc, a quiet room at the Venice Architecture School hosts a small and rare privilege for the Roma minority: a roundtable discussion where food is the connector.

Staged like a dinner party, the conversation between guests and hosts focuses on the question of the life styles of the Roma population in Italy. The table is set with simple elegance for no more than thirty people but the meeting is international. Promoted by Leah Whitman-Salkin, the discussion is moderated by sociologist Ethel Brooks and architect Irina Bancescu.

At every setting is a headset for the translation of the female voices representing the Kalderash community from Rome and another community from the Scampia neighbourhood in Naples. The food was prepared by La Kumpania, an intercultural project that engages unemployed Roma and Italian women in cooking initiatives. Food as a connector. But this is not as trivial as it sounds. Sharing food and wisdom is an act of peace that overcomes prejudices. The instinct of "nursing mothers" prevails over that of "tiger mothers."

Lunch begins tentatively and differences begin to emerge. The Roma representative (who speaks only after having exchanged glances and words with her husband) is an Italian Roma woman who is nomadic and traditional. Dressed in her long attire, she seems particularly self-conscious in front of the audience. She tells her story, proudly pointing out that she is a housewife and that her camp is clean, clean, clean. This is the first claim against one of the "classics" of marginalization: filth. Speaking against the second prejudice — that sees all Roma as thieves —, she apologizes for all of her fellow countrymen who misbehave. Her excuses elicit a reaction from a Serbian woman from Naples who has lived in Italy for thirty years, who feels no need to apologize, claiming that every individual is responsible for his or her actions. She adds that Italians intentionally dispose of their garbage in their camp in Scampia, pointing out how her and the other women in her group do not dress in the traditional apparel. They have left behind long skirts and long-sleeved blouses for tank tops and summer dresses; another sign distinguishing them from the Kalderash women who have been Italian citizens for generations.
View of the <em>Zupi-Zuppa-Soup</em> encounter
View of the Zupi-Zuppa-Soup encounter
In fact, Scampia is not a gypsy camp in the strict sense of the term. As Argentina tells the group, it is a composite settlement where families have built illegal dwellings that they call "chalets." They refer to them as their homes when speaking of their choice to abandon the nomadic life style.

In some Eastern European countries, including Romania, the policy response to the "nomad problem" during socialism was to offer permanent housing in low cost developments — in the name of equality. The same policy was undertaken in Spain in more recent years with apparently greater success, especially in Barcelona.

It seems that integration in Scampia is working. This is not only due to active integration initiatives but also due to the population's de facto assimilation to the customs of marginalized Neapolitans and their illegal activities, something they are very good at. Making do with illegal connections to the energy grid is an art learned at a very young age in some neighborhoods!
View of the <em>Zupi-Zuppa-Soup</em> encounter
View of the Zupi-Zuppa-Soup encounter
The approach to legalizing the dwellings is an interesting one. The Roma in Scampia reject the idea of "nomad camps." In fact, they sought to negotiate with the City of Naples to remain in their self-constructed homes. It s a complex question fraught with many technical issues. For example, the land on which the homes are built is partially private. And that's not all. The war on illegal construction in Italy casts serious doubts on this kind of solution. But the refusal to return to the nomad camp poses a fundamental problem that also reflects upon the way a city is planned and designed.

A crucial point for future housing policy regards the need for differentiated approaches. It is essential to think of the various communities as individual groups, because they are different and often composed of members of only one or two extended families. This means shifting from racism — even the unintentional kind that pigeonholes all Roma people into a single group of "others" — to true respect for otherness.
A crucial point for future housing policy regards the need for differentiated approaches. It is essential to think of the various communities as individual groups, because they are different and often composed of members of only one or two extended families
Irina Bancescu (second from left) kicks off the discussion
Irina Bancescu (second from left) kicks off the discussion
In Italy alone, the Roma population is quite heterogeneous. They are citizens of Italy or of other nations with all of the ensuing problems faced by other comparable migrant groups. The planned delays and red tape that are undeclared tools for reducing the number of people who have access to citizen rights, seem, in the case of the Roma population, to border on the arrogant; and these are added to other more violent means fueled by widespread racism.
View of the <em>Zupi-Zuppa-Soup</em> encounter
View of the Zupi-Zuppa-Soup encounter
They are nomadic, semi-nomadic or sedentary, integrated, assimilated (a few) or almost completely foreign. Some are semi-literate but others are college graduates. The Roma population faces several options. Become integrated? How? Assimilate or not? Set down roots or remain nomadic? The story of the Jewish diaspora is analogous. They also share the same horrible fate in Nazi death camps. Even the word "camp" — chosen to define urban settlements that are government-designed or spontaneously settled by the Roma, as the Kalderash representative tells us (the idea of the "gypsy camp" was born in Italy in the 1980s as a result of a census) — is the same word used to refer to deadly confinement in the concentration "camps." Language is not neutral as feminist scholars have shown (see, for example, the studies by Luce Irigaray and Luisa Muraro). As Marc Augé notes when defining gypsy camps as non-places, these places continue to be the mirror of cities that do not know how to plan for everyone.

Listening, then, might be the way to shift to other policies. Everyone should have the right to choose how to live; and government representatives and planners must face the task of translating this right into reality. Simona Bordone
View of the <em>Zupi-Zuppa-Soup</em> encounter
View of the Zupi-Zuppa-Soup encounter
Ethel Brooks has American/Roma origins. She is an Associate Professor in the Departments of Women's and Gender Studies and Sociology at Rutgers University. Her interests include gender and work, critiques of economic policies, globalization, social movements, postcolonialism, and critiques of race theory. She published Unraveling the Garment Industry: Transnational Organizing and Women's Work (University of Minnesota Press, 2007).

Irina Bancescu is an architect and assistant in the Department of History and Theory of Architecture and Heritage Conservation at Ion Mincu University of Architecture and Urbanism in Bucharest. She conducts research in the fields of contemporary architecture and urban planning; she studies the legacy of communism, vernacular architecture and extreme poverty. She participated as an activist in the EU-ROMA project (2007-09) and in the Roma Pavilion at the 2008 Venice Architecture Biennale.

Leah Whitman-Salkin is a journalist and professional in the field of contemporary art, architecture and public discourse.
View of the <em>Zupi-Zuppa-Soup</em> encounter
View of the Zupi-Zuppa-Soup encounter

Latest on Architecture

Latest on Domus

Read more
China Germany India Mexico, Central America and Caribbean Sri Lanka Korea icon-camera close icon-comments icon-down-sm icon-download icon-facebook icon-heart icon-heart icon-next-sm icon-next icon-pinterest icon-play icon-plus icon-prev-sm icon-prev Search icon-twitter icon-views icon-instagram