“There is no doubt that the Original Birkin is a one-of-a-kind piece—an unrepeatable artifact in the history of fashion, which has become a pop culture phenomenon and a symbol of luxury in its most refined form.” These are the words chosen by Morgane Halimi, head of Sotheby’s Handbags and Fashion department, to describe one of the world’s most coveted fashion accessories. The original “prototype” of the bag—created for actress Jane Birkin by Hermès in 1985—was recently auctioned at Sotheby’s “Fashion Icons” sale in Paris, fetching a record-breaking 10.1 million dollars.

The winning bid for what has now become one of the most expensive luxury items ever sold by Sotheby’s in Paris came from the Japanese company Valuence Japan Inc., and not from Lauren Sánchez Bezos, as previously speculated. The company stated that the purchase was not made for resale purposes, but rather with the aim of preserving Jane Birkin’s legacy over the long term. A definitive affirmation of the symbolic and cultural value this Hermès bag holds, not only within the fashion world, but also in the broader context of global collecting.

The original Birkin bag has already been at the center of a global exhibition tour organized by Sotheby’s. After debuting in Paris and making a stop in Hong Kong, it was showcased to the public at the auction house’s New York galleries from June 6 to 12.

Born from a chance encounter aboard an Air France flight between British actress and singer Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas, then creative director of Hermès, the bag drew inspiration from the maison’s Haut à Courroies design, while introducing distinctive and previously unseen features: a shoulder strap, brass hardware, and the initials J.B. engraved on the front flap. These elements mark seven substantial differences from the version that would later go into production, making this prototype a rare testament to a design philosophy rooted in the seamless blend of function and elegance. 

Opening image: The Original Birkin, courtesy Sotheby's.