The first-ever Hermès Birkin is now on display–and heading to auction

“There is no doubt that the Original Birkin bag is a true one-of-a-kind — a singular piece of fashion history that has grown into a pop culture phenomenon that signals luxury in the most refined way possible”. These are the words Morgane Halimi, Head of Handbags and Fashion at Sotheby’s, chose to describe one of the world’s most sought-after fashion accessories. The original “prototype”, created for actress Jane Birkin by Hermès in 1985, will be up for sale during Sotheby’s upcoming “Fashion Icons” auction, taking place in Paris from June 26 to July 10, 2025.

Born from a chance encounter aboard an Air France flight between the English actress and singer and Jean-Louis Dumas, then creative director of Hermès, this bag drew on design elements from the maison’s Haut à Courroies model while introducing distinctive and unprecedented details: a shoulder strap, brass fittings, and the initials J.B. engraved on the front flap. Seven substantial differences from the version that later went into production make this bag a rare testament to a design devoted to the fusion of functionality and elegance.

The Original Birkin has already been featured in a global exhibition tour curated by Sotheby’s: after debuting in Paris and then making a stop in Hong Kong, the bag will be on view at the auction house’s New York galleries from June 6 to 12. Although the estimated value has not yet been disclosed, interest in this deeply personal and charismatic object—still bearing the marks of its original owner—is immense. It represents the ultimate recognition of the symbolic and cultural significance this Hermès bag holds, both within the fashion world and in the broader landscape of international collecting.

Opening image: The Original Birkin, courtesy Sotheby's.