Light and Fashion

Great lighting is indubitably an advantage for a fashion store. It must faithfully reproduce the colours of the clothing without offending the skin tone of customers. In the dressing rooms, friendly lighting influences the buying process as much as a polite and helpful sales clerk does. A store communicates with the city outside by means of its interior illumination and window lighting. A designer who is able to harness light in a creative way is a precious partner in any type of retail project. Inaugurated in March 2009 in Milan on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the new Max Mara store is currently the company’s largest sales point in the world. It was conceived by Duccio Grassi Architects, with the consultancy of Mario Nanni for the lighting. The aim of Nanni’s lighting is to render the space welcoming and communicative by understanding the product, customer behaviour, architectural materials and fabric types. The lighting design here is based on the study of natural daylight. The store windows have discreet lights for daytime use that can be moved and dimmed in order to balance the reflection of daylight on the glass. These lighting elements can be extracted from hatches cut into the floor, vertical supports and lowered ceilings, making it possible to change displays according to the type of clothing, its colours, position and the intensity of sunlight coming in.
Outdoor brightness is toned down inside. Natural, sophisticated materials and indirect lighting provide a relaxed atmosphere. On each floor, the lighting was designed separately, not only out of technical considerations for the different structure of each level, but also to follow the principle that each shopping moment has its own special lighting. The dressing rooms are shrouded in religious semi-darkness when they are empty. They slowly light up when someone goes inside, providing the appropriate light for trying on clothes. The bridal department’s lights are hidden behind theatrical wings, making the dresses look like the set of a dreamy, elegant stage production. An airy, majestic central staircase is the mighty heart of the store and the reference point of the entire space. Left almost unlit, its volume is all the more sculptural. Only thin strips of LEDs mark the edges of the steps. Corridors, elevator foyers and the connecting areas between departments are illuminated in a thoughtfully soft, delicate and serene way, offering the opportunity to gather one’s thoughts.
All lighting elements were custom designed and integrated into structures, materials and furnishings. Technological systems offer modulation of brightness, adjustable positioning and easy maintenance. Much attention was given to the quality of light in relationship to the reduction of electricity use, leading to the choice of LEDs and fluorescent lighting throughout much of the store. Diffused lighting in combination with shadowy areas gives three-dimensionality to the space. Brighter light shines on the displays; less light is given in the areas where decisions are made. Proper chromatic presentation of the clothes makes it easier for customers to choose accurately, according to their personal taste. Each phase of the shopping experience has been given a lighting concept.
Maria Cristina Tommasini