Milan and its surroundings: 9 places to see during the FAI Spring Days

From Portaluppi to Libeskind, from Muzio to Ponti, we suggest a selection of places in Lombardy to explore next weekend, which we may not yet know or have always wanted to explore (but never managed to). 

Former Gran Cinema Vittoria, Varese 1917 The Gran Cinema Vittoria is an iconic building in 20th-century Varese and, with its Art Nouveau features, stucco work and crimson armchairs, still tells the story of its past splendour. Closed in July 2006, the building has remained unused as a cinema ever since. On the occasion of the FAI Spring Days, the former Gran Cinema Vittoria will be exceptionally open to the public, allowing people to visit a structure that is currently inaccessible, without the need for a reservation.

Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

Paolo Vietti Violi, SNAI San Siro Hippodrome, Milan 1920 Built entirely in Art Nouveau style, the complex consists of race and training tracks, grandstands and stables surrounded by a botanical garden, and is still one of the most prestigious horse racing venues worldwide. In 1999, the “Cavallo di Leonardo” was placed at the entrance, by sculptor Nina Akamu based on Leonardo da Vinci's drawings for the equestrian monument to Francesco Sforza. During the visit, it will be possible to explore, without the need for a booking, the Trot Stand, restored in 2024, the Main Stand, the Weighing Room together with the “Sala della Bilancia” and the new GAMI, the Hippodrome Multimedia Archive Gallery.

Photo Carlodell from Wikipedia

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Del Dosso, Somma Lombardo, Varese 1934 Designed by Piero Portaluppi for his sister and still privately owned today, Villa Del Dosso expresses the eclectic taste of its designer in the 1930s, combining an elegant yet sober form with classic and modern elements, integration into the natural landscape, refined interior spaces and great attention to detail, as in the numerous furnishings and decorations designed by the architect and still preserved today, according to the principle of a “total work of art”. On the occasion of the FAI Days, Villa del Dosso is opening its doors to the public on an exceptional basis, offering a rare opportunity to visit a historic residence that is not usually accessible.

Photo Roberto Morelli, Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milan 1935 The residence, surrounded by a large park with a swimming pool and tennis court, belonged to a well-educated and enlightened family of the Lombard industrial bourgeoisie, hard-working but sensitive to the pleasures of life. In 2001, the family entrusted the Villa to the FAI to turn it into a place to enjoy, thanks to its pleasant garden, numerous events and bistro in the park. The Villa, included in the “Case Museo di Milano” (Milan House Museums) circuit, is normally open to the public, but the FAI weekend offers (upon reservation) new opportunities for exploration, such as the chance to see an immersive video installation created in the villa's original garage designed by Piero Portaluppi.

Foto arenaimmagini.it  © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Giovanni Muzio, S.Ambrogio Church, Cremona 1938 This building, a rationalist masterpiece little known to the public and one of the most significant examples of 20th-century religious architecture in Cremona, stands out for its balanced combination of monumentality and simplicity, and for its characteristic use of exposed brickwork in keeping with local building traditions. During the visit, visitors will be able to appreciate the decorative work of Dante Ruffini and visit areas of the complex that are not normally accessible.

Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

Rationalist walk, Mortara, Pavia (Amilcare Sandri, Teresio Olivelli School, 1941) Mortara is home to several rationalist-style buildings constructed between 1925 and 1945 which, although modified internally, still retain their original external configuration. Among the most significant, in addition to the Nuovo Peso Pubblico (1936/37), the Casa del Fascio (1938) and the Casa della Madre e del Fanciullo (1932) designed by L. Baldessari, which now houses the municipal library, there is the Teresio Olivelli school (1941), designed by engineer A. Sandri, the only building that retains its original function as a school.

Photo Fabiana65 from Wikipedia

Gio Ponti, RAI Headquarters and Studios, Corso Sempione, Milan, 1952 RAI is opening the doors (by appointment) of the historic Palazzo della Radio on Corso Sempione, which is not normally accessible to the public. The building was designed in 1939 in a rationalist style to become the new headquarters of EIAR (Ente Italiano Audizioni Radiofoniche) and was inaugurated after the war. With its three clearly distinguishable bodies dedicated to offices, broadcasting and theatres, it is an austere “treasure chest” that encapsulates the history of Italian television and customs.

Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

Casa Museo Spazio Tadini, Milan Originally the headquarters of the Marucelli & Co. printing and publishing company, owned by the Tadini family, this space witnessed the launch of important Italian economic newspapers. After Emilio Tadini's death in 2002, the house was transformed into a lively cultural centre: today, the Spazio Tadini House Museum is perhaps the only inhabited house museum in Milan, a dynamic venue for exhibitions, concerts, shows and educational activities.

Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

Daniel Libeskind, Libeskind Tower, Milan 2020 The curved glass tower rises imposingly in the heart of the CityLife District, alongside the Generali Tower designed by Zaha Hadid and the Allianz Tower designed by Arata Isozaki. The Tower, home to the Milan offices of the international network PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC), was designed with cutting-edge solutions in the field of workplace design, combining space efficiency with a focus on environmental sustainability and employee well-being. During the FAI Days it is possible, upon reservation, to go up to the 28th and last habitable floor for an extraordinary view that encompasses most of the city and stretches from the Alps to the Pre-Alps.

Foto PwC, Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

The FAI Spring Days are back again this year. On the weekend of 21 and 22 March, the spotlight will be back on Italy's artistic, architectural and landscape heritage, inviting the public to discover not only the most well-known destinations but also unusual and normally inaccessible or little-known venues. In 2026, the event will reach its 34th edition: 780 places in over 400 cities will be open and, in many cases, this will be a unique opportunity to peek inside or to try the visit again after past failures, among endless queues and unsuccessful bookings. 

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it  © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Photo arenaimmagini.it 2022 © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto Lorenzo Pesce, 2023 © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it 2022 © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it 2022 © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milano 1935

Foto arenaimmagini.it © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano


Domus
 has selected some unmissable works in Milan and other Lombard capitals from the early 20th century to the present day, including melancholic forgotten provincial cinemas and bourgeois villas with an old-world charm, rationalist memories and architectural icons that tell the story of the origins of the modern and contemporary city.

Former Gran Cinema Vittoria, Varese 1917 Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

The Gran Cinema Vittoria is an iconic building in 20th-century Varese and, with its Art Nouveau features, stucco work and crimson armchairs, still tells the story of its past splendour. Closed in July 2006, the building has remained unused as a cinema ever since. On the occasion of the FAI Spring Days, the former Gran Cinema Vittoria will be exceptionally open to the public, allowing people to visit a structure that is currently inaccessible, without the need for a reservation.

Paolo Vietti Violi, SNAI San Siro Hippodrome, Milan 1920 Photo Carlodell from Wikipedia

Built entirely in Art Nouveau style, the complex consists of race and training tracks, grandstands and stables surrounded by a botanical garden, and is still one of the most prestigious horse racing venues worldwide. In 1999, the “Cavallo di Leonardo” was placed at the entrance, by sculptor Nina Akamu based on Leonardo da Vinci's drawings for the equestrian monument to Francesco Sforza. During the visit, it will be possible to explore, without the need for a booking, the Trot Stand, restored in 2024, the Main Stand, the Weighing Room together with the “Sala della Bilancia” and the new GAMI, the Hippodrome Multimedia Archive Gallery.

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Del Dosso, Somma Lombardo, Varese 1934 Photo Roberto Morelli, Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

Designed by Piero Portaluppi for his sister and still privately owned today, Villa Del Dosso expresses the eclectic taste of its designer in the 1930s, combining an elegant yet sober form with classic and modern elements, integration into the natural landscape, refined interior spaces and great attention to detail, as in the numerous furnishings and decorations designed by the architect and still preserved today, according to the principle of a “total work of art”. On the occasion of the FAI Days, Villa del Dosso is opening its doors to the public on an exceptional basis, offering a rare opportunity to visit a historic residence that is not usually accessible.

Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio, Milan 1935 Foto arenaimmagini.it  © FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano

The residence, surrounded by a large park with a swimming pool and tennis court, belonged to a well-educated and enlightened family of the Lombard industrial bourgeoisie, hard-working but sensitive to the pleasures of life. In 2001, the family entrusted the Villa to the FAI to turn it into a place to enjoy, thanks to its pleasant garden, numerous events and bistro in the park. The Villa, included in the “Case Museo di Milano” (Milan House Museums) circuit, is normally open to the public, but the FAI weekend offers (upon reservation) new opportunities for exploration, such as the chance to see an immersive video installation created in the villa's original garage designed by Piero Portaluppi.

Giovanni Muzio, S.Ambrogio Church, Cremona 1938 Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

This building, a rationalist masterpiece little known to the public and one of the most significant examples of 20th-century religious architecture in Cremona, stands out for its balanced combination of monumentality and simplicity, and for its characteristic use of exposed brickwork in keeping with local building traditions. During the visit, visitors will be able to appreciate the decorative work of Dante Ruffini and visit areas of the complex that are not normally accessible.

Rationalist walk, Mortara, Pavia (Amilcare Sandri, Teresio Olivelli School, 1941) Photo Fabiana65 from Wikipedia

Mortara is home to several rationalist-style buildings constructed between 1925 and 1945 which, although modified internally, still retain their original external configuration. Among the most significant, in addition to the Nuovo Peso Pubblico (1936/37), the Casa del Fascio (1938) and the Casa della Madre e del Fanciullo (1932) designed by L. Baldessari, which now houses the municipal library, there is the Teresio Olivelli school (1941), designed by engineer A. Sandri, the only building that retains its original function as a school.

Gio Ponti, RAI Headquarters and Studios, Corso Sempione, Milan, 1952 Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

RAI is opening the doors (by appointment) of the historic Palazzo della Radio on Corso Sempione, which is not normally accessible to the public. The building was designed in 1939 in a rationalist style to become the new headquarters of EIAR (Ente Italiano Audizioni Radiofoniche) and was inaugurated after the war. With its three clearly distinguishable bodies dedicated to offices, broadcasting and theatres, it is an austere “treasure chest” that encapsulates the history of Italian television and customs.

Casa Museo Spazio Tadini, Milan Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

Originally the headquarters of the Marucelli & Co. printing and publishing company, owned by the Tadini family, this space witnessed the launch of important Italian economic newspapers. After Emilio Tadini's death in 2002, the house was transformed into a lively cultural centre: today, the Spazio Tadini House Museum is perhaps the only inhabited house museum in Milan, a dynamic venue for exhibitions, concerts, shows and educational activities.

Daniel Libeskind, Libeskind Tower, Milan 2020 Foto PwC, Courtesy FAI - Fondo Ambiente Italiano

The curved glass tower rises imposingly in the heart of the CityLife District, alongside the Generali Tower designed by Zaha Hadid and the Allianz Tower designed by Arata Isozaki. The Tower, home to the Milan offices of the international network PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC), was designed with cutting-edge solutions in the field of workplace design, combining space efficiency with a focus on environmental sustainability and employee well-being. During the FAI Days it is possible, upon reservation, to go up to the 28th and last habitable floor for an extraordinary view that encompasses most of the city and stretches from the Alps to the Pre-Alps.