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A Bit of Clay on the Skin

At the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, an elegant research exhibition showcases eighteen new approaches to ceramic jewellery.

A delightful exhibition on new approaches to ceramic jewellery fits into one small casket of a room on the fifth floor of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

Recently opened and on until August, like the two previous editions, this exhibition continues the partnership with the Fondation d'Entreprise Bernardaud, which promotes the latest takes on this ancestral material, in a careful selection made by the curator Monika Brugger. Eighteen artists are featured in a simple exhibition design comprising 140 objects, attitudes and forms that demonstrate the vitality of a material that has become key among contemporary mediums.

There is a strong emphasis on European excellences, in which the Northern European countries seem to have forged a special position. Even the only non-European presence, Taiwan's Shu-Li Wun, has firm apprenticeship roots on the old continent. Her classically manufactured pieces introduce a general trend, a glocal attitude mixing local tradition with global techniques that is the common denominator of the whole. This term may be a hackneyed visual-art neologism but it is the most fitting to describe this complex and clever mix centred on the reinvention of age-old techniques and almost exclusively ritual uses. Shu-Li Wun takes the Japanese manufacture of Mokumé gané, adopted for Samurai armour, and revamps it in the more classical forms of earrings and brooches that might seem trite were the result not so beautiful and sensual, with the work and textures on show evoking Wegdwood's famous biscuit porcelain.
Top: Yasar Aydin, <em>Let me</em> necklace, 2008. Photo by Yasar Aydin. Above: Left, Gésine Hackenberg, <em>Kitchen Necklace</em>, necklace and plate.
Photo by Corriette Schoenaerts. Right, Andi Gut, <em>Crowns</em> ring. Photo by Gedusa Arndt
Top: Yasar Aydin, Let me necklace, 2008. Photo by Yasar Aydin. Above: Left, Gésine Hackenberg, Kitchen Necklace, necklace and plate. Photo by Corriette Schoenaerts. Right, Andi Gut, Crowns ring. Photo by Gedusa Arndt
These being pieces of jewellery, charm and/or sensuality are the registers consistently mentioned when perceiving the object. However, France's Carole Deltenre has reworked the material, drawing on the long history of cameo making and provokingly embellishing it with one obsessive and extremely explicit subject: female genitalia. The products of these romantic origins are adorned with labia, large and small, and clitorises in relief made of gold and silver. The artist moulds the piece of jewellery directly on the model and the magic stems from research a thousand miles removed from its crudely realistic description, claiming a political, feminist and self-determining destiny for her Nymphes, as the series is called.
Marie Pendariès, <em>La Dot</em> installation, 2008. Photo by Marie Pendariès
Marie Pendariès, La Dot installation, 2008. Photo by Marie Pendariès
The materials and inspiration behind the jewellery on show fall mostly between two precise but never diametrically opposed poles. On the one hand is a reference to the folkloristic roots of jewellery and, on the other, a conceptual research that adds to the manufacturing processes, assimilating the aesthetic potential of technological innovation.

Andi Gut, a Swiss designer of German origin, applies sophisticated irony to an eclectic collection of wonderful rings, based on a remarkable complicity between orthodontic precision techniques and those of contemporary jewellery. Both employ the latest materials and futuristic moulding techniques, and Gut revives the age-old tradition of identifying jewellery in signet rings that bear a family monogram, based directly on x-rays of the owner's teeth. The title Crowns completes the conceptual game, in what is almost a statement unifying Duchamp's objectivity with Salinger's epiphanies.
There is a strong emphasis on European excellences, in which the Northern European countries seem to have forged a special position. Even the only non-European presence, Taiwan's Shu-Li Wun, has firm apprenticeship roots on the old continent
Evert Nijland, <em>Rococo</em> necklace, 2009.
Photo by Eddo Hartmann
Evert Nijland, Rococo necklace, 2009. Photo by Eddo Hartmann
Splendid pieces of huge contemporary appeal put their stereotypical form into contact with ancient dress codes. In his series Zuiderzeewerken, Willemijn de Greef eruditely and indirectly revives the red colour and texture of the bricks of a Northern European fishing village to create colliers with simple and primitive elegance in forms that simulate the local women's ornamental shawls. Much of the jewellery on display makes reference to or plays on the use of some sort of table porcelain. Natalie Luder pays homage — not quite along the lines of Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's — in a set of dessert dishes, painstakingly arranged like a string of pearls, cut in decreasing sizes to stress the inequality of guests invited to a hypothetical banquet. Marie Pendariès plays on the old-fashioned dowry concept and the contemporary idea of the wedding-gift list, unifying the two in an anthropological trousseau of 28 wearable pieces accompanied by a splendid photo of the bride. Ceramic is also the traditional echo of clinking of cups during the tea-drinking ritual, another topos much cited in the projects here.
Tiina Rajakallio, <em>Purity</em> necklace, 2008. Photo by Tiina Rajakallio
Tiina Rajakallio, Purity necklace, 2008. Photo by Tiina Rajakallio
Although engaged in a conceptual game of moulds and pearls, Holland's Manon van Kouswijk manipulates the material sculpturally, linking it to the iconicity of Vermeer. In a tribute to the Girl with a Pearl Earring, she has assembled a highly successful necklace called Pearl Grey, an aristocratically humorous accessory that matches Flemish painting and porcelain codes. The ceramic pieces by Peter Hoogeboom, one of the most eclectic jewellers on today's scene, highlight even more the love of play and the distinctly more focused research into the interaction between the human body and the lightness of the ceramic matter. Hugely enjoyable, alongside more serious pieces, is his series of micro-teapots turned into a sumptuous brooch.
Left, Shu-Lin Wu, <em>Girandole-Mokume # 2</em> earring, 2010. Photo by Hsiao-Yin Chao. Right, Willemijn de Greef, <em>Spakenburg</em>necklace. Photo by Frans Kup
Left, Shu-Lin Wu, Girandole-Mokume # 2 earring, 2010. Photo by Hsiao-Yin Chao. Right, Willemijn de Greef, Spakenburgnecklace. Photo by Frans Kup
The eclectic nature of the proposals has also made space for practices that have less to do with handicraft and are more closely linked to a knowingly artistic-poetic approach. Luzia Vogt's pieces in the Flüchtige Momente series narrate another type of shift. In her work, the delight of the flaneur and the turning around of tiny, poetic salvaged and recycled pieces of ceramic incorporate the skill of haiku poetry, inscribed by the artist in minimal compositions.

Other lines of research explore vegetable forms such as the beautiful Green Mushroom, perhaps the loveliest brooch in the exhibition, by Finland's Terhi Tolvanen. Here, the piece of jewellery becomes political manifesto, a high expression of an ecological thought or ferocious criticism of humankind's perverse intervention on nature, as seen in the fine Oval Bonsai. This is a research exhibition, its elegance founded on a very timeless sense of luxury.
Peter Hoogeboom, <em>Shaoxing Chrysanthemum</em> brooch,
2008. Photo by Francis Willemstijn
Peter Hoogeboom, Shaoxing Chrysanthemum brooch, 2008. Photo by Francis Willemstijn
Un peu de terre sur la peau (A Bit of Clay on the Skin): Contemporary ceramic jewellery
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
107 Rue du Rivoli, Paris
Through 19 August 2012
Terhi Tolvanen, <em>Zig - zag</em> necklace, 2007. Photo by Francis Willemstijn
Terhi Tolvanen, Zig - zag necklace, 2007. Photo by Francis Willemstijn
Christoph Zellweger, <em>Seeds</em>. Photo by Corne Bastiaansen
Christoph Zellweger, Seeds. Photo by Corne Bastiaansen

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