French designer Christian Louboutin — a master of fashion but also of fetish (a whole section of the show is devoted to the topic, enriched with provocative photographs from his 2007 collaboration with David Lynch at the Du Passage gallery in Paris) — is the inventor of the famous shiny red sole, creator of dreams and emotional atmospheres that enrapture both women and men. At the Design Museum, Louboutin presents vertiginous shoes — architecture that can be used in daily life —, exceptionally extravagant, impossible to wear shoes with heels extending beyond the sole, and sole-less shoes, which can be owned but not worn. For Louboutin, the heel is a podium for women, a column that transforms the foot's arch into a dome; but then again, he was the first to affirm that a certain kind of shoe is for walking while another is for having sex.
At the exhibition entrance, the visitor is welcomed by 144 pairs of suspended red shoes. The lighting becomes increasingly softer until we reach a shadow play theatre, displaying Louboutin's most famous silhouettes. Spotlights illuminate shiny feathers, sequins and satin ribbons that alternate with thigh high spotted boots or more sober stilettos. Shoes parade on a carousel, while others are displayed in gold shells. To see more, the visitor must pass through a faux-grass arch where a giant Fabergé-style pea-green egg from Louboutin's London studio displays yet another precious walking device.
The exhibition's design constantly evokes and echoes the ubiquitous red sole: one of its main events is a striptease by queen of burlesque Dita Von Teese (alas, censored before she took it all off), a showgirl who, at the end of the sensual but artificial performance, is magically transformed into a giant silver diamond shoe — with the inevitable red sole. Staged every 30 minutes, the performance also features a typical English line waiting on sinuous lacquered red benches.
The Louboutin show is a story of unspoken words, impossible possibilities, intimate and barely-mentioned suggestions
Christian Louboutin
Design Museum
28 Shad Thames, London