Coming into Fashion

The exhibition “Coming into Fashion – A Century of Fashion Photography at Condé Nast” presents at the Museum Bellerive an overview of fashion photography and its development.

Coming into Fashion
For the first time, the publisher Condé Nast has opened its archives in New York, Paris, London and Milan to offer insights into its exceptional photography collection.
This exhibition presents a comprehensive overview of fashion photography and its development from the traditional pictorial compositions of the medium’s founding fathers, including Edward Steichen and George Hoyningen-Huene, to the experimental photography of Erwin Blumenfeld, the sexualization and voyeurism of Helmut Newton, the cool elegance of Peter Lindbergh, and works by Mario Testino and Tim Walker.
Coming into Fashion
Top: Miles Aldridge, Vogue Italia, September 2002 © Miles Aldridge. Above: Deborah Turbeville, American Vogue, May 1975 © 1975 Condé Nast
Seductive, provocative, banal, eccentric, and above all powerful: fashion photography has long transcended the boundaries of mere commissions and aestheticized documentation. It is a unique experimental field between commerce and creativity, mainstream and subculture, industry and art. As paradoxical as it may appear in its nature and execution, from the very beginning photography has been an important part of our visual culture. Like no other genre, fashion photography not only captures the spirit of the respective decades, individual longings and the dreams of society, but also influences, encourages and incites participation and imitation. This sociological dimension is unparalleled in the medium. The legendary publisher Condé Nast recognized this enormous expressive power early on and created a style for his magazines Vogue and Vanity Fair that remains influential today. His publications were the first to elevate haute couture to the level of art. With his unique ability to discover new talent, he supported the careers of the best photographers, many of whom went on to achieve fame, and thus made a lasting mark on an entire genre of art.
Coming into fashion
Clifford Coffin, American Vogue, June 1949 © 1949 Condé Nast
No other segment of photography has so comprehensively and consistently generated new pictures and continually reinvented itself. New visual styles and aesthetics were often first tested in fashion photography and closely followed the continuing development of technology. Interestingly, since the beginnings of fashion photography, the focus has increasingly shifted away from the object itself, fashion. In its place, the visual style of the photographer has become increasingly dominant, opulently staged pictorial compositions and elaborate visual schemes have gained significance, and the stature of models has risen considerably. In the wake of these developments, it was no longer sufficient to produce mere fashion photos. Innovative, distinctive styles, trends and images needed to be created, new topics explored and taboos broken. Today the boundaries to commercial photography on the one hand and artistic practices on the other are becoming increasingly blurred, and classic fashion photographs are being traded on the art market with greater frequency.

Since its founding in 1909, the publishing house Condé Nast has not only established print publications such as Vogue, Vanity Fair and Glamour, but has also shaped the image of fashion and people over more than 100 years. During this long period of activity, enormous volumes of photographs have collected in the publisher’s archives, which were not discarded even after the onset of digital media, thus representing a unique resource from which this exhibition emerged.

The curator Nathalie Herschdorfer has assembled essential works spanning 100 years of fashion photography from this important historical collection for the Museum Bellerive, ranging from rare photographs from the early days of the medium to spectacular contemporary works. The exhibition comprises some 150 vintage prints as well as original editions of magazines.

Coming into fashion
Left: Erwin Blumenfeld, American Vogue, March 1945 © 1945 Condé Nast. Right: David Bailey, American Vogue, April 1962 © 1962 Condé Nast

until October 19, 2014
Coming into Fashion
A Century of Fashion Photography at Condé Nast

curated by Nathalie Herschdorfer
Museum Bellerive
Höschgasse 3, Zürich

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